The Shifted Warp Ikat Scarf
Workshop Fee: $775.00
Ikat is the refined and beautiful textile technique of resist-dyeing pattern into individual threads before weaving. It is a complex multi-phased fiber process resulting in graphically elaborate and vibrant woven cloth. Ikat wrapped yarns, when dipped in vats of indigo dye, instantly become timeless, immersed in an ancient partnership between tradition, intention, and design. Participants in this five-day workshop will design, wrap, dye, warp and weave a classic indigo dyed ikat scarf, while learning several versions of the shifted warp ikat process. This intensive workshop will teach techniques drawing from two honored traditions: Indigo and Ikat. The five-day format allows students to learn how to establish, use, and maintain a natural indigo vat, enhancing their skills and fluency at both the loom and dye pot. This class is a rare opportunity to study with contemporary ikat weaver, Mary Zicafoose.
Note: This is not an introduction to weaving class or a weaving refresher course. Students must be able to measure a warp, warp and operate a loom, and weave without assistance. However, no previous dye or ikat experience is necessary.
Skills and Techniques:
- Â Sub-dividing a stretched warp for Ikat design
- Wrapping and knotting techniques for resist wrapping fibers with ikat tape
- Refresher course on simple dyeing systems for ikat
- Demonstration of six warp shifting design techniques implemented during the loom warping process
- Tips on weaving ikat
Materials Fee: $20 paid directly to the instructor for workbook and Ikat tape.
Special Tools or Equipment:
Sanborn Mills Farm has a limited number of looms to loan out for this workshop. Email marsha@sanbornmills.org to reserve or inquire about availability. Otherwise, it will be assumed that you are bringing your own loom and warping board.
2-4 harness floor or table loom with a 10, 12 or 15 dent reed
portable warping board
2- 3” C-Clamps to secure warping board to worktable
tying-off yarn/thread in a different color & weight than your warp
set of lease sticks that fit your workshop loom
scissors, tape measure, shuttles, etc.
your preferred header weaving material
paper or sticks for rolling on warp
5/2 white or natural cotton warp for 3+ yrd warp-warp will be measured in class
20/2 cotton, linen, or silk weft
Warp Calculation: Pick a natural fiber warp yarn that you enjoy working with, one that will make a lovely canvas for your ikat wrapping/dyeing. We are striving for a densely sett warp dominant cloth, not a balanced 50-50 weave, to showcase the beautiful ikat that will be dyed on each individual warp thread.
You will bring your warp yarn(s) to class where we will stretch, measure and wrap our warps together.
*warp yarn suggestions for a 10, 12 or 15-dent reed:
5/2 perle cotton, white or natural, 8-10 oz
20/2 silk, white or natural, 4-6 oz
8/2 Tencel, white or natural, 7-9 oz
20/2 Normandy Linen, white or bleached ivory, 6-8 oz
*weft yarn suggestions: Your weft should be a much finer fiber than your warp in order to create a dense warp-face weave. This will allow the ikat dyed pattern on the warp threads to be the showstopper. We will dye our warps and weft fibers in the Sanborn Mills Farm indigo vat. The simplest weft solution, which does not require the additional step of dyeing very fine weft threads, is to use a blue shade of commercially dyed 60/2 silk, 50/2 silk, 30/2 silk, 20/2 Pearl cotton, 10/2 Tencel, or 40/2 linen. You will only need 2-3 oz of weft. However, if you want your weft to match your warp, it must be dyed at the same time, in the indigo vat. To save time at the workshop, pre-skein your weft fiber selection(s) (2-3 oz) into a hank with several loose figure 8 ties to secure and stabilize it from twisting and knotting in the vat.
Below is a hypothetical example of the math involved in figuring out scarf warp:
Desired scarf length: 72”, not including fringe
Desired scarf width: 10”
Available reed size: 12-dent
Warp material on hand: 5/2 perle cotton
Knowing we want a densely sett warp, plan on 2 warp threads/dent, which will be 24 epi’s, ends-per- inch. For a 10” wide scarf you will need 240 warp threads. For a 72” scarf add 36” for loom waste and fringe = 3 yrd warp
The warp you will measure for your scarf will be a total of 240 ends @ 3 yrds. I suggest adding an additional 6-10” to accommodate warp shifting techniques.
Do not pre-measure your warp on your warping board! We will do this in class. The warp must be stretched under tension on the board to wrap the ikat.
FYI: 5/2 perle cotton is a tried-and-true success in this class. Set densely at 30 epi’s it makes a denim-like table runner, set loosely at 20 epi’s it transforms into a graphically vivid ikat scarf with a soft drape. It’s manageable, relatively inexpensive, drinks up dye, and warps up quickly
Please be sure to read our 2025 policies before you register for a workshop which can be found here Workshop Policies
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